You can sew washpapa on regular household machines, as well as upholstery, industrial lockstitch machines. Washpapa does not fray, so it does not require overlock.

Useful information

We use sharp denim or leather sewing needles with a thickness of 90 or 100. The best thread for commercial machines is synthetic 40 or 60, for home machines – cotton or denim thread. We use Tytan (60) produced by Ariadna or Syntex (40) produced by Amann.

It is quite hard to tear washpapa. However, if you cut into it a bit, it tears just like a regular piece of paper.

Washpapa bends and tears better along its shorter side.

Washpapa Standard left side has a slightly perforated structure. This perforation is less visible on washpapa Aged. Washpapa Aged right side has a more noticeable, aged structure, especially visible in the case of a roll.

Washpapa is very durable. When sewing, remember to use appropriate reinforcements in the place where the straps are attached. When sewing, you should also hold the seam so that it will not tear. This is the most critical moment of the sewing process. Turn washpapa inside out when wet or treat it with steam using a steam iron. If you sew washpapa lamina, shine or washpapa covered with foil, gently spray the left side with water so as not to damage the laminate. Washpapa Aged and Standard can be ironed.

Washpapa Aged, especially from the roll, is the most flexible and the most comfortable in sewing and use.

Washpapa Standard is stiffer and should be moistened not only when turning inside out, but also during sewing.

Sewing washpapa requires the same caution as when sewing leather or other materials where visible holes can be left. Ripping marks can be removed in water by rubbing, the paper can be sewn again by inserting the needle into the previous stitch or sewing on a piece of paper.